ABOUT
Restoration project: 1982 Rolls Royce Silver Spur (LWB) | MKI
Engine: L410 6.7L V8 (N/A)
Fuel system: 2 SU carburetors (HIF7)
Transmission: 3 speed Auto (THM-400)
The car was in bad “Barn Find” shape as it hadn’t been running for a long time. My plan is to restore & revive the L410 engine, to have it running healthy. Also, replacing all suspension components, brakes etc…
The project will begin with as a restoration, and will probably turn into a Restomod. “Project Reina“.
More Photos–>Gallery
Task 1: Reviving The Engine
(A) Finding the main source of the dead engine
Based on the condition, visually, this needs a lot of work and in different areas. So I decided to take my time and start with the basics. First, I need to have the motor to run. After a battery replacement, and few ignition trials it would barely crank..so no start. Did some research, hopped on forums, spoke with people etc.. (my usual homework). A lot have pointed at the Ignition Module in the Distributor, as their known to fail with age.
To test that, pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap holding it close to ground while cranking over the engine and seeing a fast series of blue sparks would confirm the ignition module is firing the coil and the coil is working. A failed rotor will not distribute that spark out to the cylinders. Both failing rotors and the Lucas OPUS ignition module are common failures on early Spur models. A good strong blue regular sparks from several spark plug leads, then it is more likely a fuel fault.
And so it turns out mine has that issue, along with the main distributor assembly, cap, and rotor arm. After replacing the parts, the engine is back to life.
**Parts Source: Flying Spares
(B) Engine inspection, while idling
After being able to have the engine run, the first noticeable issue is a constant loud ticking sound. It could either be from a bent Pushrod or a collapsed Lifter.
To identify, there are 2 tests to follow. First, which could be related to the Brake Pumps, is to check all the clamps off the pump feed hoses & remove the outlet fitting on the top of each pump and cover with a rag. The ticking noise should be gone if no fluid is feeding the pump and the pipe to the Accumulator Valve.
If the noise is still there, the next 2 parts to check are the Pushrods & Lifters.
The Valve Covers need to be removed to check each Pushrod and spin to see if one is bent. If all are straight, next is to run a Feeler Gauge under each Rocker Arm with the engine running. If it’s a collapsed Lifter the noise will disappear when the Feeler Gauge takes up the slack under the faulty one.
There’s also a way of identifying if the issue is caused by a failed valve. With years of the engine being dead some Cylinder Valves might get stuck or seize up. After starting the engine, Lifters will run up pushing the Pushrods and bending them if there’s a seized up Valve. Regardless, either check ups, parts sourcing, and replacement will cost. Apart from that, there’s also a Steering Pump leakage, not very serious at the moment, but adding that including engine full restoration for my next important task.
I took “Reina” out on a small spin, and I’m stunned by the ride comfort (suspension) and most importantly….BRAKING! And here I thought I’d be having this car sitting in the backyard for months of me just running the engine parked each day. Rolls Royce… I’m impressed.
Task 2: Restoring The Engine
Next up on the list is to fix the ticking issue and replace the factoring part (Valve, Lifter, or Pushrod). Will also have the engine fully inspected for any faults, to have it fully restored in excellent condition.
Task 3: Suspension & Brake (Restomod)
Once I restore the engine fully I’ll work on the suspension & brakes either by restoring all with OEM parts or go crazy with some modern parts (knowing me, I will haha). I’m not and never was a fan of bagged cars, but on this hmm…maybe? I have a build vision already, so let’s see if I can make it happen. Stay tuned!
Task 4: Updating soon!
Project Reina Vision
MAJJ GARAGE 