First, a quick recap on Full Bolt-ons “FBO”. FBO are all the plug and play parts, hence bolt-ons, that give you the maximum power/torque on the VR38DETT stock block, turbos and GR6 Transmission. (Exhaust, Injectors, Intakes, Intercooler…). Adding a Flex Fuel setup would be the final “power-adder” to your FBO setup, adding about +40-50whp.
-Approx FBO on e85: 650whp/640wtq
-1/4 mile times: Low 10’s / High 9’s with the right drag tires and weight reduction.
Now, before you consider the next parts for upgrades, you need to research and understand more about the factory R35 engine internals and transmissions’ safe power levels. Speak to shops, and join forum discussions. Below are my suggestions (not recommendations) on what you should be expecting.
So what’s next?
Ultimately, the sweet formula for a built 1,000hp GT-R = FBO e85 + Short Block build + Trans/clutches upgrade + Turbos.
However, you’ll be looking at dropping approx. $40K (excluding the FBO E85 upgrades).. Ouch.
Are there any alternatives? Yes! Before starting my Alpha 9 build, I did my research on doing the upgrade in stages, instead of doing a full build in one shot, due to budget. (*Spoiler: I ended up doing the full build, instead of in stages, will explain below)
First, you need to understand the safe power levels on the factory internals. The R35 factory Engine internals & Drivetrain can handle 600whp/600wtq, but not guaranteed. Many have had their clutches start to slip at 600wtq. It also depends on your driving style.
Indication on what affects what, when increasing WHP or WTQ:
WHP affects —> Drivetrain (Clutches, gears etc..)
WTQ affects —> Engine (Rods, pistons, valves etc..)
I was able to breakdown that sweet bulletproof formula, above, in 2 stages or options if you’re not able to do a complete build in one shot.
– Option 1 – Built Short Block, Camshaft, and a clutch upgrade.
– Option 2 – Upgraded turbos + Clutch upgrade (on stock short block).
– Option 3 – Doing both 1 & 2 at once, which is what I ended up doing.
Options Breakdown:
Option 1: Built Short Block, Camshaft, Clutch kit (Stock Turbos)
This was my first option. It technically gives you the safest option, but the least power increase option. Safest, because you will have forged internals that can handle up to 900 WTQ, without being bent. Also, upgraded clutches to avoid slipping beyond the 600wtq, depending on what clutch kit you end up going with. Since the engine will be out, you might as well upgrade the Camshaft, because YOU WILL do that if you end up upgrading your Turbos. Upgraded cams will have the most effect on your top end higher rpms where you are still trying to supply a ton of boost.
This option give you added Torque, but nothing from the Horsepower end. The stock turbos max out boost at 20psi, around 650whp, which is what an FBO GT-R is capable of.
Option 2: Turbos + Clutch upgrade (Stock Short Block)
I know a lot of owners running this option, with 800whp+/600wtq… to me, it’s a ticking bomb setup.
Yes, you can drop bigger turbos, keep the stock Rods/Pistons, and upgrade the clutches for more WHP. However, your tuner will HAVE to limit down the tune to 600-620wtq, to avoid bending your stock rods.
If you’re looking for more power, you want more TORQUE (the feeling that kicks you in your seat, as you floor it). As mentioned above, your stock block won’t handle added torque…so you’re left with the opposite of Option 1. WHP>WTQ
Keep in mind labor costs. Going for turbos, means having your engine dropped, which costs a lot. You will end up building the short block down the line, which means you’re going to pay labor twice for that engine drop.
Just to give you an indication on labor costs; a few years back in the U.S., I was charged $330 to install injectors only. Installing injectors doesn’t require an engine drop…so you can imagine what that would cost. (I tasted it lol, during my A9 build now, but keeping it confidential, because the shop owner is my friend).
Option 3: Full 1,000hp Build
My goal was to add more power & torque, while making sure it’s safe on the Engine/Trans. Ultimately, I wanted to build a reliable street-driven 1,000hp GT-R. It didn’t matter which option above I would choose first, I would have done the other later on.
The problem I had with my FBO GT-R at max power levels, was my constant worrying/paranoia of breaking some stock internal parts. I didn’t really fully enjoy it. So choosing option 1 or 2 for my Alpha 9 build would have made me keep worrying… Will a Rod come flying out? Did my clutch just slip?
I decided to re-visit my budget plans, saved a little, and pulled the plug one shot!
**NOTE: whatever your budget is, add an extra 10%-15%.. trust me. You never know the condition of your engine/trans parts, until they’re all stripped out.
My Alpha 9 feedback post build –> HERE
MAJJ GARAGE 