Wheel spacers bolt onto the hubs to provide space between wheel and wheel hub by slightly pushing them outward. No performance gain with spacers, just a more aggressive/stance look having your wheels stick out more. If you’re looking for improved grip/handling, just go with wider tires
There are 2 types of Spacers. The slip-on style that bolt to the hub, and come with extended studs that replace your factory studs. The other type comes with the Bolted-on studs, which are used for larger size spacers over 10-15mm. These “Bolt-on” spacers bolt onto the hub with the existing studs. Many advise to avoid the bolt-on type due to risks of the studs breaking off from weight, but that’s mostly if you’re on track, which I’ve rarely seen, but do take them off for precaution.
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THE MAIN THREE FACTORS when buying spacers: 1) they must be HUB-CENTRIC that center the wheel & the spacer on your hub. Basically, a spacer that’s made for your exact make & model. Avoid any floating/universal type. 2) The spacer MATERIAL. Don’t go cheap, stick to high grade material like 6061-t6 billet aluminum. 3) Lugs must be TORQUED correctly. For a 2014, the factory lugs torque settings is 97 ft-lbs (132 NM).
I always run spacers on all my cars, and had one encounter only with my GT-R after 5 years with the Eibach spacers (which are aluminum-alloy). I caught the issue by coincidence after having some wear on my factory rotors rattling. After taking off the wheels and spacers, I noticed one of the studs threads almost gone on my front-left. The other 3 spacers were fine. I suspect that one of the lugs were OVER-torqued, when replacing my Titek lugs to the ProjectKics.
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Regardless, I decided to replace all spacers, and go with the H&R Trak+ DRM Series, which are made of billet aluminum. I got 15mm front, and 20mm rear.
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