Wheel spacers bolt onto the hubs to provide space between wheel and wheel hub by slightly pushing them outward. No performance gain with spacers, just a more aggressive/stance look having your wheels stick out more. If you’re looking for improved grip/handling, just go with wider tires
There are 2 types of Spacers. The slip-on style that bolt to the hub, and come with extended studs that replace your factory studs. The other type comes with the Bolted-on studs, which are used for larger size spacers over 10-15mm. These “Bolt-on” spacers bolt onto the hub with the existing studs. Many advise to avoid the bolt-on type due to risks of the studs breaking off from weight, but that’s mostly if you’re on track, which I’ve rarely seen, but do take them off for precaution.
THE MAIN THREE FACTORS when buying spacers: 1) they must be HUB-CENTRIC that center the wheel & the spacer on your hub. Basically, a spacer that’s made for your exact make & model. Avoid any floating/universal type. 2) The spacer MATERIAL. Don’t go cheap, stick to high grade material like 6061-t6 billet aluminum. 3) Lugs must be TORQUED correctly. For a 2014, the factory lugs torque settings is 97 ft-lbs (132 NM).
I always run spacers on all my cars, and had one encounter only with my GT-R after 5 years with the Eibach spacers (which are aluminum-alloy). I caught the issue by coincidence after having some wear on my factory rotors rattling. After taking off the wheels and spacers, I noticed one of the studs threads almost gone on my front-left. The other 3 spacers were fine. I suspect that one of the lugs were OVER-torqued, when replacing my Titek lugs to the ProjectKics.
Regardless, I decided to replace all spacers, and go with the H&R Trak+ DRM Series, which are made of billet aluminum. I got 15mm front, and 20mm rear.
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MAJJ GARAGE 
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