2014 Nissan GT-R Black Edition

My Build

from Stock to Full Bolt-Ons to Built 3.8L

About

2014 Nissan GT-R Black Edition in Deep Blue Pearl, it was 2014 model in DBP in the U.S. market. I purchased ‘Gwyneth‘ from a Nissan dealership in Darien, Connecticut, and took delivery on January 10, 2014—undeniably the best day of my life! As a Black Edition, the GT-R came equipped with 20″ Rays wheels, a dry carbon fiber wing, a two-tone steering wheel, and Recaro seats.

Gwyneth was my daily driver from 2014 to 2018. Unlike other supercars, the GT-R was surprisingly easy to maneuver through city traffic, rush hour, highways, and even snow! The standard Recaro seats on the Black Edition are very comfortable, and the suspension in “Comfort” mode is quite manageable. One immediate drawback, however, is the “infamous” transmission noises from beneath the car. It’s normal and something you’ll get accustomed to.

I began modifying my GT-R just 19 days after receiving it. A year later, I completed my FBO (Alpha 7 Build) and continued to use it as my daily driver. I enjoyed the power and reliability for almost six years… until I started craving more power! In 2021, I began my next project, upgrading to bigger turbos, rebuilding the short block, and enhancing the transmission, a journey I’ll detail below.

On this post, I’ll be sharing build guides, advice, and listing parts for upgrading your GT-R.

Upgrades: Where to start?

Upgrading from STOCK: Tips!

Before you start ordering aftermarket parts, plan ahead! What’s your build goal? What voids warranty? (if that is one of your concerns), What parts require other component upgrades? What parts require retuning?

What doesn’t void warranty?

Exhaust, Midpipes, and 2.75″ Intakes.

What requires tuning?

Aftermarket Downpipes, Injectors, and 3″ Intakes. This will also void your warranty (well it depends what breaks down, anyways). You cannot replace your downpipes, or upgrade to 3″ intakes without getting bigger injectors and a tune. Your car will run so bad, stall, and will definitely go on limp “safety” mode.

Must have component parts?

Anything beyond Exhaust, Midpipe, and a small 2.75″ intake will change the cars’ ECU/calculation behaviors, and add more boost. This means that you MUST get a tune, and upgrade your factory injectors. The 570cc injectors usually max out at around 530whp (14 – 15psi).

Your build goal?

Do it right by figuring out your build goals (whp level? trap times? track only? and so on…). In my opinion, you’ve got 3 options, or stages, when it comes to upgrading/rebuilding your GT-R.

– 1st option: Full bolt-ons
adding all the plug & play parts. (stock internals)

– 2nd option: (FBO + upgraded turbos & clutch) or (FBO + upgraded motor & clutch)
My least favorite option. Many owners start with upgrading their Turbos first, and then rebuilding the Short Block at a later stage to avoid paying a lot for doing both at once. I call this the “Ticking Bomb Setup“. Upgraded Turbos mean more PSI, whp & wtq, however going beyond 600-650wtq on stock internals will damage rods/pistons and so you’ll have to limit down WTQ. Upgrading the Short Block allows up to 900+WTQ, but factory turbos only handle 20psi. So again, limiting down. Basically you’re paying for upgraded parts, yet limiting down to a little more than FBO levels.
^For more details on this option (Read This)

– 3rd option: Built Motor, Turbos & Transmission Upgrades.
This falls under many levels & parts needed, depending on your power goal. But in general, this is where you will have to upgrade your engine internals, clutches, gears etc… to handle your power goals.

Guide: Full Bolt-ons

Max upgrades on stock internals

Full Bolt-ons “FBO” are basically all the plug & play upgrade parts, without having the need to rebuild any internals. Bolt-on parts such as: Tunes, Exhaust, Midpipe, Downpipes, Injectors, Intakes, Fuels pumps, Intercooler and such. An FBO GT-R is capable of hitting 580-650whp with 1/4 trap times between 10.3-10.8 @ ~135 mph (217 kmh). Power figures & trap times depend on Dyno type, fuel used, tires and other factors.

*The FBO term is labeled differently by each car make or community. Parts above are the most common.
Video explaining FBO GT-Rs & my FBO Build–> “What an FBO Nissan GTR actually makes! Stock to FBO“

My FBO part upgrades & feedback.

Exhaust Setup

The first thing you will probably notice…is exhaust sound. With the stock exhaust setup, the GT-R is very quiet. I started with replacing the catback exhaust with the HKS Legamax Titanium Tips. The exhaust alone did not make it any different from stock sound. Next, I got the HKS Resonated Midpipe.

The midpipe & exhaust combo did make a slight difference, but not what you’ll probably looking for. The car was louder at startup, on idle, and barely at wide-open throttle. In terms of in-cabin drone, it was mostly noticeable on highway cruising speed around 65-70mph (below 3K rpms).

Finally, I decided to jump to the next stage of going FBO. I got the AMS Alpha 90mm Downpipes (Catless). This setup was amazing! It eliminated the drone I had with the HKS midpipes, improved sound, tone, and was not too obnoxiously loud when cruising. At wide open throttle, it is LOUD! Just perfect!

*Side note: I replaced my midpipes 3 times lol. My first one was the HKS Resonated, and after installing the Alpha downpipes, I replaced the midpipes with a COBB catted midpipe, thinking that it would reduce drone & fume smells. It did.

5 years later, the Cobb midpipe snapped due to salt/rust build up, while driving in winters (DETAILS –> HERE). So I went back to my HKS Resonated midpipe. Both setups we’re amazing, no drone, and no fume smells.

Intakes

It’s either a 2.75″ or a 3″ intake, which needs tuning. Don’t do my mistake of thinking that “I’m going to keep it stock” and getting a 2.75″ to keep warranty. You’ll grow out of it and will probably end up getting a 3″ later on! There are many out there, search, ask in forums (GTRLIFE.COM) or your tuner.

I went with a COBB 2.75″ first, then swapped them with Sakura Big 3″ Intakes (in-house made by Kaizen Tuning – no longer in business). Now that you’ve got 3″ intakes & downpipes, you’re going to need a retune (You will also need bigger Fuel Injectors).

Tuning

Two ECU softwares to choose from: COBB or EcuTek. Both good, each tuner has their own preference. You can also download “off the shelf” maps, but I don’t recommend that! Get a custom tune. I chose COBB, the AP V3, because I like having the AccessPort handy, viewing my own custom parameters, adjusting TCM, and most importantly reading any CEL codes instantly!

Note: There are two versions AP3-NIS-005 (does not include TCM reflash), and
AP3-NIS 006 (includes TCM Reflash). If you choose COBB, I suggest going with the 006 to be able to adjust to clutch capacities & touchpoints, especially if you plan to build your engine & trans… you will definitely need a TCM reflash done by your tuner. Next, find a good tuner, (ask on GTRLife), you can do it locally, or have an E-tune sent to you.

On April 2022, COBB released a new “Green Speed” update, which complies with California emissions regulations. It causes some annoyances if you upload any new tune, and constantly shows CEL light. Regardless to that, after my Alpha 9 build I decided to convert to EcuTek after just hearing a lot of positive feedback. The ECU Connect has great features and syncs with your phone by app (bluetooth).

Injectors

As mentioned above, if you plan to install Downpipes & big Intakes (3″), or go full FBO, the factory 570cc injectors will max out!

Choosing the injector size will depend on your power goals. For a full-bolt on GT-R, 1050cc/1100cc is enough. For my Alpha 7 setup, I went with ASNU 1100cc and capacity is around 60% at wide open throttle.

*NOTE: If you plan to upgrade from FBO to built/bigger turbos and plan to run E85, you will need at least 1700cc injectors. I’m currently at the built stage, with the same 1100cc, which allows me to run with C16 (high rating octane race fuel).

Intercooler

Most manufacturers have 2 types, Street (for FBO’s) and Race (made for built GTR’s over 1000whp+). I got the Alpha Street Intercooler, which is a direct bolt on, including “Alpha” etched on it. This FMIC will also fit your stock IC pipes.

Surprisingly, the intercooler alone added about 40+whp after doing a dyno re-tune on my previous Alpha 6 setup (Downpipes, Mids, Exhaust, 3″intakes, Injectors).

Blow Off Valves

Want that “psshhhew” flutters? Those are made by BOVs. They don’t add any power, just noise. There are two ways running BOVs, recirculating air back into the intakes, or venting out to atmosphere. Venting out is what gets you those flutters.

MYTH: Most tuners say running VTA needs a Speed Density Kit, which means moving the temp sensor from the Intake to the charge pipe to properly calculate SD Based fueling for $350!

Not true, and I can confirm that. I’m running VTA with the HKS SSQV 4, without a Speed Density kit. My tuner does all his tune bases on SD. My car runs fine, no knock or limp.

HKS SSQV 4 – Sound

Flex Fuel (E85)

You will need a Flex Fuel Kit, Fuel Pumps, and a re-tune. For the Flex Fuel Kit, I got the Visconti V2, which allows you to swap or mix pump gas and e85 freely without any harm. For fuel pumps, I got the ASNU 330lph. With my FBO Alpha 7 setup.

DynoJet Numbers (FULL BOLT-ONS):
e85: 646whp / 661wtq
93Aki: 603whp / 605wtq

My Alpha 7 Build Review & Walkaround

FBO Gains Over Stock

Guide: From FBO to Built

The next big step

After driving my FBO GT-R for 6 years, with no major issues, I’ve finally decided to move on to the next level and upgrade my factory turbos, and rebuild the engine and transmission. (Project start date: April 3, 2021).

Now, before you consider the next parts for upgrades, you need to research and understand more about the factory R35 engine internals and transmissions’ safe power levels. Speak to shops, and join forum discussions.

If you’re not sure where to start, I’ve written a full detailed section with my suggestions (not recommendations) on what you should be expecting. Turbos or Short Block upgrade? –> HERE

Turbos

My goal is to add more WHP, while making sure it’s safe on my internals/trans. The factory turbos at the FBO level, maxes out at 20psi. As the factory turbos max out at 20PSI, the obvious solution is to get bigger turbos. There are many turbo options in the market to go with, I personally love AMS Performance’s quality, and chose to go with their Alpha 9 GEN II turbos (most refer them as Alpha 9+).

AMS hasn’t released spec details and differences between the Gen I and II. Only that they spool faster, at around 2,800rpms, and makes more top end power.

Short Block

Factory rods handle up to 600whp/600wtq. So in order to be able to use the added power and boost from the bigger turbos, you would have to upgrade the factory Rods, Pistons, Studs, and Bearings. Many aftermarket shops offer a 3.8L crate upgrade with those parts.

I went with the AMS 3.8L Race, which will be built by MC Performance, including some additional parts:

AMS Spec Extreme-Duty JE Pistons w/ skirt coating
AMS Spec Extreme-Duty Manley I-Beam rods
Connecting rod, main & thrust bearings
Boost Logic 625 Head studs (not AMS)
OEM Head Gasket kit
OEM Oil Pumps

Camshaft

The bigger the turbo, the longer it would take to spool. This means that reaching the optimate power point will be on the higher RPM range.

To fill that torque gap (LAG) down low from the bigger turbo, you would want to upgrade the factory camshafts and valve springs. Cams increase the duration and timing of the valve openings during the engine stroke, increasing horsepower and making your car accelerate more quickly. I chose the GSC Power-divisions S1 Cam (billet). I also replaced the OEM cam sprocket.
Adv Duration 264 deg
-Intake: 222 deg @0.04″ / Lift 10.5mm
-Exhaust: 220 deg @0.04″ / Lift 10.3mm

Other Cam options: Kelford B2 & Tomei PonCams

Fuel System

Upgrading turbos require a better fueling system, and also depending on what gas you will be using. Regardless of gas options, you would need a Twin Pump fuel syst (inc. fuel lines)). If you’re moving from FBO and will be running pump gas only, then your current injectors (1100cc or 1300cc) will be sufficient. If you plan to run ethanol, you would need bigger injectors (1700cc).

For now, I’ll be running pump 95 Ron, and occasionally C16 race fuel (117 octane). I’m going with a custom fuel system built by MC Performance, paired with Twin Walbro 525lph pumps.

Gears &
Clutch

The factory clutch will start slipping over 620wtq. Unless you plan to do all the above upgrades, and limiting your tune to 600wtq, factory clutch would be fine… but on borrowed time!

For my power levels, around 760-860 whp, I was advised to go with the Dodson Superstock clutch kit with an added 8th, not 7, for more durability, built by MC Performance. The shop will be using Dodson Motorsport clutch plates and parts. My clutch baskets are still OEM, and won’t need to be replaced.

I replaced the 1st gear & input shaft with the DMS Extreme Duty kit, and was hesitant between keeping the stock 2-4 gears (keeping in mind that 4th has been the most failed gear). The shop is confident, and experienced with R35s, including the owner who will be mimicking his own daily R35 build to mine. *Note: going for a full gearset is another $7k-$8k… if you have the budget, go for it. I’ll probably do it sometime in the future, just for piece of mind.

I replaced the factory clip on the 4WD Gearlock with the DMS Heavy duty, for added safety, as the factory clip on the 4WD gearlock is known to fail and come off, which actually happened to me post build and damaged a few other parts. Make sure you get that part, even if you’re stock or FBO.

Few months later, I had a sudden loss of 1st & R gears with a P2715 CEL code, which refers to Pressure Control Solenoid D failure. It actually turned out to be from the 1/R Shift Fork. It had minor scrapes on the edges, which was probably causing the issue hooking onto those gears. I replaced that fork with the DMS Heavy Duty Billet 1/R. (Check my guide details: How to fix or temporarily resolve P2715 issue)

A year later, I’ve had major drivetrain damages due to some parts failing and causing domino effect damages to other drivetrain parts. I’ve had another Fork damage (2/4), damaged Gear Syncros, and Rear Differential. The factory Fork C (2/4) & Synchros had to be replaced with Dodson Fork & Syncro set.
Full details on the major damages –> HERE

Current Clutch Capacity & Touchpoints on EcuTek set to: +2, +2, +2, +2

TCM Tuning

When upgrading to any power level over 600whp/600wtq, your clutches will probably start to slip. You will have to upgrade your clutches, and your gears (depending on how and where you’ll be driving). By doing so, your tuner will have to “Reflash TCM”, so re-calibrating your transmission/clutches (gear re-learning), and adjusting clutch capacities and touchpoints.

During the build, I was still on COBB with a custom tune (38B0B stock style LC5 V103 Map), and had to upgrade my AccessPort to the TCM Flash version (AP3-NIS-006). For details –> HERE

I later decided to switch to EcuTek w/TCM. No reason, but a lot have been happier with EcuTek over COBB.

E-Tuned by MC Performance KSA & Kanoo Performance Bahrain, so the car has not been on an actual dyno. The tune is based on actual Dyno’d cars in Bahrain. 2 Maps: Pump gas (95 Ron) and Race Fuel (C16). The pump gas boost setting from 18psi-24psi.

E-Tune Estim.

95 Ron-Low Boost: 750whp/740wtq @ 22psi peak
95 Ron-High Boost: 750whp/740wtq @ 26psi peak
C16 Race Fuel-Low Boost: 860whp/850wtq @ 30psi
C16 Race Fuel-Hight Boost: 860whp/850wtq @ 32psi

Gear Relearn and Clutch Capacities

Ecutek racerom nissan gtr — EcuTek Racerom & Bluetooth Connect

Built Alpha 9 Experience

My journey with a built R35

How it felt – During Motor Break-in:

I got my car back with the new build 39 days later, quite an impressive time yeah? I’ve always been paranoid with internals, so I’ve daily driven the car to break-in the new motor for 1,000 km. Minimal boost, and kept it below 4k rpms. (Tuner/builder did one big pull with me.. and I did one as well).

1) Start up: Loud piston rattle at start up – I understand it’s normal due to more clearance on forged pistons.

2) Cruising rattles: On-going, not loud, but noticeable piston rattles (slaps) while cruising – same as above. Kind of feels like driving a diesel powered GT-R lol.

3) Auto shifting: While driving on AUTO.. shifts are so much better and responsive vs OEM. Finally, the car doesn’t shift to 6th at 30mph lol (tree-hugger)… It’s all in the TUNE!

It feels like Trans R mode, just less aggressive…very responsive. When cruising normal, it Shifts to 6th at 50mph..if i let off and drop to 49mph it would shift to 5th and so on. If i slowly accelerate, it would downshift like it needs to. Finally feels like a sports car even when driving on Auto. LC Map: 38B0B stock style LC5 v103

4) Gear/clutch: rattles and noises. I wrote up a separate detailed feedback here–> (Upgraded Trans – What’s it like?) Again, normal for upgraded aftermarket clutches to make some noise.

5) WOT: My feedback on my one WOT.. h**y Cr*P. I have 4 maps (2 for RON 95, 2 for C16) both low & high boost settings. I did the pull on the highboost pump gas… woah … I’m used to that 19-20psi from FBO.. I hit 28psi (according to my AP). I can’t imagine the feeling on high boost C16.

***Months later, I ran into multiple disasters and random parts breaking, which led me to rebuild the whole car all over again. I’ve written 2 detailed posts, one explaining all the damages and the 2nd details on the repairs and rebuild. Links below:

Upgrades: Exterior & Interior

My selected exterior & interior parts

Wheels &
Tires

Advan Racing RS-D 20×9.5 ET 40 / 20×10.5 ET 20
H&R Trak+ DRM Spacers 15mm/20mm
ProjectKicks Leggdura 53mm closed-end Lugs
Pirell Pzero 285/35/20 & 295/35/20 (Summer)
Pirelli Sottozero 255/40/20 & 285/35/20 (Winter)
Bilstein Suspension (stock) – Street Mode alignment.

20×9.5 – 20×10.5 Setup: same as mine, and want that flush look/tires sticking out of the fender, you will need to run the same tire/spacer sizes as me.

20×10 – 20×12 Setup: popular with the Volk TE37. You would need to go with +30mm offset front & +20 offset rear. Tires option: 285/35/20 & 315/35/20 (also 335). No spacers.

Exterior Aero

RevoZport Carbon Fiber DN Trunk (Double-Sided)
JCR Carbon Fiber Swan Neck GT Wing
N-Tune CF Front Splitter w/ Air Ducts (Nismo Style)
Rexpeed Z-style Carbon Side Skirts
Difflow Diffuser Fins

more exterior photos –> Here

Let’s begin with the Splitter & Skirts. There are many options, vendors, and even knock-off versions out there for both items. When choosing your splitter, make sure to check reviews and feedback from other owners who might have experienced with some of the parts you find. When I say “Knock-off versions”, it doesn’t mean fake or bad (some eBay ones are!). There are good vendors, who offer similar Splitters/Skirts styles based on original ones, at almost half the price. (Knock-offs usually refer their part name with “xx Style“).

Fitment & installation is key! For Splitters or Front lips, you need to bolt them up correctly, even if it means you need to drill and add more bolts for security. Remember, you don’t want these Splitters flying off at 150+mph!! Be aware: minor scrapes from time to time, might feel okay, but it’s NOT!! I’ve had minor scrapes here and there, and was shocked at the results, while removing the undertray to replace my new splitter. (see damages)

For a street driven GT-R, I would recommend looking for Quality Knock-offs, to save some $$, while still getting quality look-alikes. I have experienced Splitter & Skirts from Rexpeed, who offer styles such as the well-known Kansai Service splitters, and Zele. Both fitment and carbon quality of the K-style Splitter (Kansai type) and Z-style skirts (Zele type), were excellent. I’ve had both on my car for over 5 years, with no issues at all. The K-Style splitter offers an Air Duct option that has the Splitter pre-cut to insert the ducts outside-in, which I did not like. The ducts did not fit well, and left them sticking out a little. If you are a perfectionist, avoid the duct option!

After somehow losing one of my ducts, I’ve decided to look at other vendors, who offer splitter with the ducts pre-molded. I chose to order the N-Tune Nismo Style Splitter (#N100-1001). This splitter is made from pre-preg carbon fiber materials (2×2 weave), and includes functional brake ducts for cooling, as well as high grade aluminum brackets for support.

The N-Tune splitter fits CBA and DBA models. Just so you’re aware, these stick out a bit below the LED DRL’s on the standard DBA bumper, since the Nismo bumper protrudes there. Compared to my previous Splitter, the N-Tune is less aggressive, sticks out less, and sits higher from the ground. However, in my opinion, the styling looks better, brake ducts are functional (built-in), and feels much stronger/durable.

*Note: For N-Tune parts, reach out to Eugene at EPI Motoring – Best support! (+1-626-695-0525)

Next, diffuser options. I wanted a more aggressive rear-end look, without having to replace the whole factory diffuser. The Difflow Diffuser Fins were the best option I came across. You can choose the fin depth, I went with 4.5″ (street friendly). It comes with 5 Fins, support rails, all necessary hardware, and attach to your existing OEM undertray. Excellent quality and extremely durable! I’ve hit & scraped these fins many times with no issues.

Finally, Wing setup. Again, many options out there with different results on Drag & Downforce. If you’re just planning on “looks” vs performance results, then it really just comes down to taste & preference. I chose the JCR / RevoZport Wing & Trunk combo, which turned out beautiful IMHO. Both can be bought separately, with the option to have them in Gloss or Matte carbon finish. The trunk also has the option to have the single or double-sided Carbon. (Mine is double sided). The fitment & quality is excellent with an unbelievable weight difference in weight compared to the factory wing/trunk.